The FF&W E-List mailing for Jan/Feb 2010 has gone out (as of Sunday night). My analytics show no “bounces,” so the mailing should have reached everyone on the list. My concern is that overly aggressive spam-filters may catch it (even though it is designed to avoid those issues for the most part). If you are on the E-List and did not get the most recent mailing, check your junk mail or spam folder!

If you ordered a Nature of Fly Casting book during the last week, your order has either already shipped or will at some point today (I’m heading out to look at some water, so they may be on tonight’s truck out of PDX).

Depending on where you live, expect anywhere from 4-14 days transit time (the books go either “media mail” or via international airmail, neither of which is terribly quick, but those methods are the only way I can afford to offer the books at a decent price).

Another long-time friend from my youth has passed (and unexpectedly). My father has a nice little remembrance on his blog. I know that some FF&W readers likely either knew Dick (and his perfectly pressed khakis, top to bottom) or have seen him in my slideshows, most likely this photo:

This day was a beautiful day on the Costilla reservoir at Vermejo. A good day with which to always remember an old friend…

Drawing Flies 52 Muddler Minnow. Almost blew it today, but saved it last second with something unexpected (and that I’ll now be using more for sure). I used the entire 30 minutes right to the *ding*, but the final drawing shown only took a few minutes.

Tech info: 9″ x 12″ Canson tracing paper. Mechanical pencil, pen, and watercolor crayon (and one wet rag at the right time). Wanted to do a piece like the Boss, on tracing paper with watercolor (I like what water does to the tracing paper). Got 25 or so minutes into it, and found myself in the ugly position of having overworked it and getting worse. I thought of just putting it up and letting it stand as a testament to blown projects, but I just couldn’t leave it like that.

So, I grabbed a wet rag, and on a leap of faith wiped the painting clean with a couple of hard smears (you can faintly see the wet pen streaks radiating back on the paper). I was left with this ghostly, cool-looking image that retained key areas of detail and shading. I had only three minutes or so left on the clock.

I grabbed a brush, grabbed my blue, purple and green watercolor crayons, and went for the wash effects outside the pencil and pen lines. I did a few quick spatters as I laid in each color, and then saturated the brush to get some deep purples (and eventually blues). I got one small wash of deep purple at the head/collar juncture and *beep.*

Well, 30 minutes is 30 minutes, and while I didn’t quite get the “pop” that I wanted with the wash (needed just another 60 seconds!), I still got something unexpected that I’ll use again going forward.

Lesson for this fly: Don’t give up too easily!

Available for purchase? No.

Jeff’s Muddler is here. I love charcoal, and the light effects that Jeff got on the muddler head/eye are just great. The whole piece is cool—with its reverse-out style—and I think Jeff got the feel of the classic pattern down in a way that he really knows how to do! The dark background makes me think of those tea-tinted, northern Great Lakes streams, and fishing the swampy areas late at night with #4 streamers. Definitely has a mood…

FF&W reader and fly tyer, Leng, recently sent me an email and asked about the Cross-Dresser fly design that I had in the Modern Midges book project. Specifically, Leng wanted to know about the wing and other aspects of the fly, since the photo in the book is from only one angle and there are no significant tying instructions.

The illustration above shows the basic elements of the fly, including the “V-Wing” design. The trick with the V-Wing is to simply use one piece of material to make both wings (Z-lon, sparkle yarn, SST, etc. can all work). Just pull the material up under the hook as shown, and tie it down. One can tie it down (and add dubbing, etc.) in such a way that the wing(s) point more to the back, more to the front, or more straight-up. The wings can also be positoned more fore or aft on the hook shank. Experiment to find what you like.

Also keep in mind that this technique can be used to quickly create a parachute post, too (just tie it down and reenforce it so that the “V” becomes an “I”. This V-Wing technique is a simple trick that I learned a long time ago, but it’s one that I still use for many of my own “winged” patterns (as well as “cripples” and emergers).

The rest of fly is pretty simple, with a Z-lon, sparkle yarn or SST trailing shuck, a dubbed body (that uses a light olive and light gray 50/50 dubbing blend to mimic an array of midges and mayflies), and a palmered, dun-colored hackle, clipped on the bottom. Modify as necessary.

Many readers will recognize the Cross-Dresser as having its roots in the venerable Griffith’s Gnat, and that’s exactly right. I typically carry both in my boxes. Here’s a quote about the fly, part of which can be found in Modern Midges:

The Cross Dresser (Winged) is an extension of the venerable (and highly effective) Griffith’s Gnat. This pattern adds a shuck, a V-wing, and a body color that allows the fly to work well during many midge and mayfly hatches (that’s the cross-dresser part). Like many effective midge patterns, this fly is fairly minimal and impressionistic.

If you’re on the E-List, I’m including the full pattern description in this week’s mailing…

Just a quick post to everyone who has ordered Nature of Fly Casting books up through and including Jan 29. All the books have shipped or are shipping as of today (Feb 1). Got a little behind due to the heavy initial response (thanks!), but am now caught up on shipping.

Depending on where you live, expect anywhere from 4-14 days transit time (the books go either “media mail” or via international airmail, neither of which is terribly quick, but those methods are the only way I can afford to offer the books at a good price).

Thanks to all who ordered over the weekend, as well. Got your orders today, and I will process as I can in the next few days…

A bit of writing from about 10 years ago in which I actually use the term “most-subtle” with a straight face. Hope you find it useful (even if the wording gets a bit fluffy in spots).

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Fly fishing for trout can be a most-subtle affair. The flies can be maddeningly tiny, the tippets gossamer-like, and the fish so spooky that they bring tears to one’s eyes. Of course, subtlety is one of the elements that makes trout fishing, especially in challenging waters, so inescapably appealing. Solving the riddle with finesse and artistry is what it is all about. One of the subtle problem-solving skills that can see great success when dealing with touchy trout is the greased leader tactic.

The greased leader tactic is meant to accompany smaller sub-surface imitations, although it can also be used with tiny, visually-elusive dry flies. The idea is to use the leader to suspend the fly and provide information about drag, as well as helping to signal takes by the fish. In other words, the leader becomes a nine-foot long monofilament bobber. If you simply can’t stand the idea of a bobber, regardless of form, just employ the term “fly suspension device.” It sounds far more noble and technical, and after all, part of the enjoyment of fly fishing is using the terminology.

Well, a greased leader isn’t really a bobber (is it?). A greased leader certainly does allow you to suspend flies at pre-determined depths, but there is nothing wrong with that, especially when those pre-determined depths are necessary to catch fish. A greased leader also helps you to gather and verify information about where the fly is, if the fly is dragging and whether or not that fish 50 feet away in strong glare sipped your size 22 midge pupa a foot below the surface.

A greased leader requires only two components: a leader and some paste-style floatant. The thicker floatant sticks to the leader better and is easier to handle. To grease the leader, first rub some floatant between your thumb and forefinger and then grasp the butt end of the leader with said thumb and forefinger. Now, draw the leader through your thumb and forefinger smoothly and evenly. You can repeat the process to insure uniform floatant coverage. You can also roll your thumb and forefinger back and forth to keep the floatant application dynamic.

Before you go wild greasing your leader, be sure that you determine at what depth you want to suspend your fly. Grease the leader down so at least as much remains un-greased as the depth that you desire your fly to hang. Allowing a little extra leeway in the un-greased portion of the leader gives you some cushion to compensate for the pull of currents, stiffness of leader material and sink rate of the fly. If you really want to get you fly hanging straight down off the greased portion of the leader, try a right-angle leader set-up.

A greased leader falls gently to the water’s surface and is visible in a variety of lighting conditions. Of course, the fact that most of the leader floats, means that it makes a noticeable surface impression when seen from underwater. This may be an issue when dealing with extremely spooky fish in glassy stillwater environments. That doesn’t mean you should discount the greased leader as a viable tactic in such places. I have used greased leaders on many of the world’s most famous “challenge waters” with great success. If the tactic proves to be in issue in a particular circumstance, then try switching over to a micro-indicator set-up.

Here is a sample greased leader designed to fish an emerging midge pupa in slower waters: 4 feet of .020”, 2 feet of .013”. 2 feet of .010” (1X), 3 feet of .007” (4X), 6 inches to 1 foot of .005” (6X). Grease down to the juncture knot between the 4X and 6X. Fish the fly with a slow strip of a foot or so in length, then allow the fly to rest for several seconds. I have had fish sip a pupa so softly that the leader barely twitched. I have also had fish rip a pupa right off the line when using 3X. You never know….

The greased leader tactic is certainly simple, but it can really be a help when the presentation going gets tough. Give it a try the next time you need to work some subtle trout artistry.

Drawing Flies 52 Flashback PT. Really pressed for time today, so drew in mechanical pencil (50s-style sleek), and went after it with detail brush, crayon, and some down-and-dirty washing and spattering.

Tech info: 6″ x 9″ Academie sketch pad. Mechanical pencil with watercolor crayon. Had one idea in my head all week, and I flat ran out of time today, which meant “scrap it all and wing it.” I ran with my trusty mechanical pencil, and quickly laid down some lines, including the hook sweep and the body wire. If you look closely, you can see how few primary lines there really are, with some fast cross-hatching and scribbles to get texture.

I grabbed my watercolor crayons and detail brush next and got into the color. The watercolor crayons provide juicy color quickly (dab a few times with a wet brush and you’re good), but also come out of the brush very fast with little more than a swirl in water and a fingertip squeeze.

I ended up going faster than I thought, and went back over some of the areas with deeper color (like the legs). The hook eye and bend were successful with a minimal amount of fussing (dark gray, followed by the final white highlights a couple of minutes later). The white was used to pop the highlights, and I almost stopped, but felt a washy look might be good to add some visual interest. I grabbed a larger, softer brush, hit some water, hit a crayon, and thrashed down the washes. Another few reloads of the brush (and a few quick flicks later) and the spatters were down.

In at 12:34, out at 12:47.

Available for purchase? Yes, yes it is (use the Contact JB link in the header).

Jeff’s PT is here. The best yet, Jeff (I think)!  I really like it! The 3-D sense of shadow also adds something very involving in the piece.

Update 1: Just read Jeff’s concerns over his piece. No way, Jeff. I think you pulled it out, and I like the off-centered weighting. I totally understand the feeling of something not being what you want (today for both us, actually), but to my eye, you made it work.

Update 2: Muddler Minnow is next (a childhood fave).

For those following the Speed of Haul discussion on the Sexyloops Bulletin Board, here’s that post I promised. For those not following the discussion (or not wanting to read through those pages of casting-tech pontification), what follows is a quick taste of double-hauling (short cast) as shown on the 200-frame-per-second motion-capture system used by the Fly Casting Institute. If the hard-core aspects of casting are not your cup of tea, just enjoy the cool slo-mo. If you dig this kind of stuff, then have some fun with the cast/haul intricacies…

[ Javascript required to view QuickTime movie, please turn it on and refresh this page ]

That’s the QuickTime video up there…

And this is the resulting haul velocity graph down here…

You can see that the max velocity (with my hand) is reached at frame 873, which is quite close to maximum rod flex (MRF is casting geek-speak), versus rod straight position (RSP, at frame 894). There has been much discussion (coupled with high-speed video) about the maximum haul (at least in long-distance casting) occurring closer to RSP (or even just after RSP). While I’m not terribly surprised by the mo-cap results here, I am wondering if the highly wind resistant motion-capture “flags” (used to allow the cameras to “capture” the line), were causing me to haul sooner than I normally would have to compensate for the significant air-drag. I can definitely say that air drag with the flags in place was, well, a drag!

I have an idea about how to capture the line without flags, but I’ll have to kill a line to do it. I also have a 100+ foot cast sitting on the mo-cap system, also captured with double-hauling and flags. Just have to get the data points off the thing, but it’s sitting in Montana right now! My fellow casting-geek author, Grunde, and I have been threatening to write a technical haul article for some time (lots of threats, not much action), so perhaps this will be a good kick-off and I’ll light a fire under myself to get the data from the bigger casts, too…

More to come, for sure!

I recently re-acquired all 315 remaining copies of my Nature of Fly Casting book. I sold through a small stack last week at two club events, and am making the last of the books available here on FF&W (for a special price, of course). All 320 pages of pedagogical fly-casting goodness are available to U.S.-based readers for $20 shipped (and WA state tax paid). For those “neighbors to the north” in Canada the book runs $US28 shipped. And for everyone else, the book is $US38 shipped. Why so much everywhere else? Two and half-pounds of paper eats a lot of jet fuel, I guess…

A bit of well-worn marketing-speak about the book:

From professional fly-fishing educator, Jason Borger, comes this perception-changing look at the learning and teaching of fly casting. Jason’s Modular Approach and Three Phases will help you dissect and understand casting and mending quickly and effectively. These empowering concepts were developed through years of observing the ways people learn about fly casting. Whether you are just beginning, want to improve, or are teaching, this book was written to help.

What that really means: It’s an intense reference text written by a guy who can be a bit excessive about organization! It’s also an info-packed text written by a guy who wants to provide something truly useful to the fly-casting community.

The book will come signed and personalized to the buyer. If you want to order, e-mail me directly, and an e-invoice, payable with a credit card or PayPal will be sent to you (e-mail using the Contact JB link in the header). If you want more than one book, I’ll do a multi-copy discount on a per-order basis.

GB has now finished the initial writing of Reading Waters, the second book in our upcoming series. From the title I’m guessing that you can figure out what the book is about. We are editing book one (Fishing the Film) now, and we are also setting up the pricing structure, distribution, and other details for the series.

My task in these initial books is to serve as the illustrator and design/layout lead, as well as being the series editor. I’m adding a few stories and bits of technical info here and there as we go, but these first books are mostly GB-centric in terms of writing. I’ll be jumping in heavily on the writing side once we get into the casting and mending books.

GB is aiming to have the first four books written this year, and I’m aiming to have as many of those illustrated, laid-out, and printed as possible. Once we get a bit further along, we may set-up a “pre-order” list for the first titles, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.

Be sure to check out GB’s blog for more info from his end of things, as well as his usual posts on tying and so forth.

Wrote this years ago, but I still use the idea in my demos and clinics. It’s definitely more dynamic when presented live with props, but I think you can get the idea without watching me tear a rotator cuff…

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Why is it that “beginners” always seem to catch the biggest fish of the trip? Through all the wind knots, leaky waders, impaled fingers, and size 8 Royal Wulffs, the beginner still seems to prevail at some point. How can it be? Simple: Beginner’s luck! Well, actually, it’s more like beginner’s casting. That 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock flailing that everyone has had to go through in their fly-fishing life is the secret. How so? Well, huge, open, energy-inefficient loops can make for surprisingly effective (if uncontrolled) Puddle Casts.

Puddle Casts (or Puddle Mends), with their myriad “S” curves, equal reduced or eliminated drag, and thus make for the quintessential “drag-free drift.” While everyone else was casting perfect loops and arrow-straight lines (and getting all sorts of drag), the beginner was flailing away, but often getting little or no drag on the fly. Sooner or later that size 8 Royal Wulff drifted perfectly over the largest fish of the trip!

What can be learned by that? One lesson is that “perfect” loops and “perfect” casts are not what they may seem at first. For absolute straight-line distance, a text-book “candy-cane” loop can certainly be a benefit. For beating drag, however, a loop that’s more open, aimed above the horizontal, and quickly retarded in its forward motion, can be the ticket. The next time you practice casting, try to make a variety of loops on your forward casts that you envision serving differing purposes (but keep your backcasts neat and clean)—it won’t be long before you get back some of that “beginner’s luck.”